Look, I’m not here to tell you I’m an expert. I’m the guy who, three years ago, turned a routine RFS cable order into a $1,200 lesson in thermodynamics and hubris. If you’re new to ordering or crimping RFS connectors, especially for that first run of 3310 series cable, these are the things I wish someone had told me before I wrecked a weekend and my budget.
What’s This “RFS File System” Got to Do with a Connector?
Let’s clear up a confusion I had. “RFS file system” is a term from network storage, not directly about cables. But searching for “RFS file system” on a cable job site? That’s a rabbit hole that leads nowhere. The RFS you’re looking for is Radio Frequency Systems—the people who make the Cellflex and LCF cables you’re probably trying to crimp. I spent an hour once clicking through wrong search results because I didn’t start with “RFS coaxial cable.” Minor thing, but it ate into my prep time.
Mistake #1: Using the Wrong Tool for the 3310 Cable
I ordered 500 feet of RFS 3310 cable and a box of connectors. Simple job, I thought. For the first batch, I used a universal crimp tool from my old job. Huge mistake. The 3310 series has a specific braid and jacket thickness. The universal tool didn’t seat the ferrule correctly. Out of 12 connectors I installed, 5 failed the pull test immediately. That’s $480 in wasted connectors plus the time to re-terminate.
What I do now: I check the RFS connector datasheet for the exact tool part number. For most LCF connectors on 3310 cable, it’s a specific hex die size. Buying the right tool upfront saved me on the next order.
Mistake #2: Thinking “Magic Max” Fixes Everything
Magic Max is a great lubricant for pulling cable in conduit. It’s not a magic bullet for a bad prep. In my second year, I had a tough pull through a congested riser. We used a ton of Magic Max. The cable came out clean, but when I prepped it, the lubricant residue made the center conductor look shiny and slippery. I thought it was fine. Two weeks later, that PIM test failed. The lubricant compromised the connector interface. We had to pull a new run.
I should add: Magic Max is fine for the jacket. Use isopropyl alcohol on the conductor before assembly. A small step I skipped for speed that cost 4x the time later.
Mistake #3: Ignoring the Prep “Recipe” for LCF Connectors
This was true 20 years ago when cable construction was less consistent. Today, each RFS connector has a specific strip length and prep sequence based on the cable batch. I once ordered connectors for an LCF12-50J job and used the strip guide from a previous install. The braid was 2mm too short. The connector locked, but the electrical contact was poor. It wasn’t until the spectrum analyzer showed a spike that we tore it apart. We’d made 18 connectors that way. All had to be cut off and re-done.
Lesson learned: The strip length for the 3310 cable might be different from the LCF12. I now keep a printout of the RFS file (the actual connector drawing) taped to my tool case. Saves me from relying on memory.
How to Crimp an RFS Connector: The Simple 5-Step I Use Now
- Check the RFS drawing. Find the correct prep length for your specific cable and connector combination. It’s online at rfs.com. Write it down.
- Strip carefully. Use a proper coring tool. Don’t nick the center conductor. I’ve seen people use a utility knife on 3310 cable—that’s a high-frequency disaster waiting to happen.
- Clean the surfaces. Remove any Magic Max or jacket residue. Use alcohol on the center conductor.
- Seat the connector fully. Push it until it stops. If it doesn’t feel “solid,” you probably didn’t strip enough jacket off. Stop and recheck.
- Crimp with the correct tool. Use the die specified for that connector. One smooth squeeze. Don’t “cheater” crimp from both sides. It weakens the connection.
(Should mention: I test the first two crimps with a pull gauge. It’s overkill for small jobs, but for that 3310 order, it caught a subtle tool wear issue early.)
Common Questions People Ask About RFS Crimping
Can I reuse an RFS connector?
Technically, yes, if you have the right removal tool and the connector isn’t damaged. But I don’t. The cost of a new connector is less than the field labor to troubleshoot a reused one that fails. Prices as of early 2024, an N-type connector for LCF12-50J is around $8-12. Not worth the risk.
Is Magic Max necessary for pulling cable?
It’s good for long or tight pulls, especially in hot weather. But don’t overuse it. A light coat is enough. We’ve found that a dry pull on 3310 cable with good conduit bends works 90% of the time. Magic Max is a backup, not a requirement.
What’s the hardest part about crimping RFS connectors?
The prep consistency. Getting the braid fold right. Getting the strip length exact. It’s not the crimp itself that’s hard—it’s the prep. I can only speak to installs I’ve done. If you’re working with armored cable or a new batch of 3310, the prep sequence could be different.
In Q1 2024, we tested 4 different connector brands on a single cable spool. Pricing varied by 40% for identical specs, but the RFS connectors had the most consistent prep instructions. That consistency matters when you’re training a new tech.
That’s it. No grand conclusion. Just a list of mistakes I made so you don’t have to repeat them. Happy crimping.
